If the imagination of a child could come up with the idea of an ancient medieval castle, it would probably be something similar to the small fortification that stands in the Chianti hills close to Florence, set between San Casciano and Greve.
The drawbridge is missing, and there are no knights in their heavy armor, but the rest corresponds perfectly. There are the four beautiful, angular towers, with their perfectly balanced proportions, stressed by a rhythm of flat topped merlons, and an evocative atmosphere. The paradigm of the Middle Ages, not at sinister and dark but alert and proud. A complex that links its own fame to a controversial figure from Florentine history, a certain Pier Soderini, that was owner of the castle and owes his fame to the fact that he was elected Gonfalonier (Governing magistrate) of the Florentine Republic from 1502 to 1512 in a political period that was very troublesome for the town of Giglio, straddled between the banishment of the Medici family and its successive return. In short, he was i local ruler with very poor political intuition and was not particularly able in the management of public life, but had the irnportani merit of honesty.
But in the Soderini age, the caste had already become a private residence and had left behind its original role of a defence fortification situated on the crucial lines of communication between Florence and Siena.
A complex developed around a medieval tower that in the XIII century found its wine growing and producing vocation.
lvano Reali, administrator of Beringer Blass Italy, recent owner of the castle, introduces himself to us at the visit. Shortly afterwards we are joined by Silvia Bottelli, the PR consultant. The medieval wine cellars are crammed with casks and oak barrels for ageing. Amongst these walls, solid like rock, there still lingers an ancient soul. A soul that evokes an invisible past that has not disappeared. Coming back into the light of day we see that the castle is similar to a beautiful theatre that is still closed to the spectators. Amongst the new owner’s plans is the intention to make it useable, in fact to make it become the heart around which to produce the new Gabbiano spectacle, in the centre of Chianti Classico.
My almost obsessive passion for sounds immediately arouses the desire to see a summer music season, held in the beautiful garden, which has a privileged view over the hills and wines. But then I consider theatrical plays, evocative shows with banquets full of ladies and gentlemen where the wine from here is served. I stop imagining these scenes when we enter the restaurant named Il Cavaliere.
The culinary dishes are prepared by Marco Stabile, a young chef that learned the tricks of the trade at a well-reputed school that belongs to another chef, an old friend of mine and appreciated master of cuisine. This is a young chef that already has the countenance of the great roaster and announces a personal menu on the lines of a Tuscan tradition lightened and re-appraised by intelligence.
I catch sight of a small flowerbed stuffed with herbs and he immediately notices my interest and picks a bunch of perfumed herbs which then go on to improve and exalt my personalized dishes. His is a rare type of kindness. Failing to disappoint me is the passage of wines which nowadays is defined as a wine tasting session. Without hesitation I commit myself to the reds.
I taste a good Chianti Classico riserva castello di Gabbiano in which the recently awakened Sangiovese seems to be still a little riotous in immediately giving its best. I re-try it a few minutes and a patient oxygenation later and find dry and moderately tannic scents with an aftertaste of fruits of the
forest that is the true sign of every great Chianti Classico. Decent and worthwhile is Bellezza, a Sangiovese IGT (typical to the geographical area) in which there is a clear scent of barrel (now customary to many wines that we taste) that quickly reaches the nose.
Also very interesting is Alleanza, another IGT wine but with a completely different nature. This was born from a friendship, (and perhaps even a bet) between two oenologists, Giancarlo Roman, that meticulously follows Gabbiano, and Ed Sbragia, that is involved with the American Beringer Blass enterprises. The two have created a wine by adapting and experimenting and have come up with a very pleasant organic result. This full-bodied red contains 50% Sangiovese, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
It is an absolute must!

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See also:

The Antinori Family Wine Producers, Antinori: Wine Makers for 800 Years, Mazzei of Fonterutoli Chianti Makers, Volpaia: a Wine, a Hamlet, Colle Bereto in Florence, The Small Vineyard of Colle Bereto, The Great Montevertine: a Small Winegrower, Albola by Zonin, Castello Brolio of Ricasoli Firidolfi, Colombaio di Cencio Tech Wine, Ricasoli of Cacchiano, San Felice Chianti Hamlet

or go back to Chianti Wine Producing Estates